Food Heaven of India - Kolkata Discovering what the city has to offer

There is only two words that can define the Kolkata food scenes very briefly and perfectly- cosmopolitan and diverse. Kolkata, the city ...

There is only two words that can define the Kolkata food scenes very briefly and perfectly- cosmopolitan and diverse. Kolkata, the city of joy, is not only considered as the cultural capital of India, in-considerably, it is the true heaven for foodies as well. With at least a single iconic shop with their century old iconic recipe, this city has a lot more to offer to the food lovers. In most of the cases we will see that the food scene of a particular city or country is determined by the culture it possess, but in case of Kolkata, here the culture of a particular “para” or locality is determined by the special foods found there since ages. As an example, here in a Kolkata, a whole Punjabi locality was grown circulating some old Punjabi style Dhabas in that area.

Kolkata has been infiltrated by people from different community and cultures, both Indian and international since ages. Along with the Punjabis, the Marwaris, Parsis, Gujratis, Awadhi's you will also find some old and new china town, some old Armenian colonies, some Tibetan areas, even the Jews, in this very city. Along with their people and culture, Kolkata also take up their food customs with open arms as its own and from this several iconic recipes have been emerged. Other than our very own Bengali food, there are two culture or race, which has the biggest effect on the Kolkata food style and those are the Mughals and the British. The city literally embraced these two as its own in such a way that till today you will find hundreds and thousands of shops, selling Biriyanis and kababs everywhere. Food items like sandwiches or hash brown or the famous sumptuous English style breakfast with Earl Gray morning tea is became a household names and all credits goes to the British only. The association of the Britishers and the Kolkatans also evolved a very own cuisine, the Anglo-Indian cuisine.

A mighty ten thousand word also will fall short if I started discussing about just the history behind iconic Kolkata street foods. But here in this article the main objective is about those gems which the city secretly keeps within. I am going to mention some of the old and iconic places that defines the food scene of this city since ages. Some of those are-

                GIRISH CHANDRA DEY AND NAKUR CHANDRA NANDI, HEDUA

No discussion about Kolkata food will be incomplete, is there is no mention about the sweet delicacies this city has to offer. Kolkata is known for its Rosogolla (sweet cottage cheese balls) and Sandesh (another cottage cheese delicacy) all over the world. And there is no better place than GIRISH CHANDRA GHOSH AND NAKUR CHANDRA NANDI, to indulge in those sweet treats. Located inside a small bylane of a famous locality of the north Kolkata, Hedua, their “Nolen gurerKanchagolla” and the “JolbhoraTaalsansh” is something to die for. For over than 100 years, this iconic shop is serving the best quality of Mishti to the entire city.

             MITRA CAFÉ, SHYAMBAZAR

Another gem located beside the busy old street of North Kolkata, just a few steps from the Shyambazar metro station, this iconic over than 100-year-old shop is known for the savory items they serve. Known for their very famous “mutton cutlet”, a deep-fried crumb coated mutton snack, finding a place in the old Café style restaurant is literally a pain, even in a regular weekday. Other than the mutton dish, their “prawn cutlet”, “diamond fish fry”, “dimer devil” is also worth trying for.  The main specialty of this shop is they only use clarified butter or “ghee” to fry all their snacks. And trust me, that doubles up the taste by anyway. 

           DECKER’S LANE, ESPLANADE

For more than three decades, the food joints on the Decker’s lane is serving breakfast and lunch to office goers, to shopkeepers and the people came for work around that area. Situated between two famous buildings of the Esplanade area, the currency building and the peerless office, this place has everything from “khichuri and tele bhaja”; to “puri-sabji” and from “fish fry and mutton rezala” to “mango lassi” as well. But there is one shop which makes this place even more famous, I.e. the shop run by “Chitto da”, famous for its mouthwatering oriental style Chicken stew and bread. The main catch line of this place is all food items sold here is below 100 bucks. Yes, that cheap! Even the famous Gordon Ramsey also set up a stall in this street to compete with and outdo the food venders for his own TV show.

   NAHOUMS BAKERY, NEW MARKET 

In the midst of swiftly changing food business in the city, Nahoums literally stood the test of time. From 1902, to still today, 2019, for 117 years, this shop does not undergo any makeover and worn the old-world charm with pride. Not only the oldest in the city it is also the only Jewish bakery in the entire country. Located in the old new market complex, this bakery is famous for its “Rich fruit cakes” and “Plum cakes”, which they specially bake for Christmas and simple “dry fruit pound cake”.. Other than these, different types of homemade cookies and macaroons to different types of breads, this iconic shop has its own base of customers. If you are ever planning to visit this shop, must try their “chocolate brownie’, “the lemon cake” from the sweet section and “chicken cheese puff” from the savory items. 

·         

      TERRITY BAZAR, NEAR POLICE HEADQUARTERS, LALBAZAR

Another hidden gem of the city, located in the old china town, also known as the Chatubabu lane, this place is well known for the authentic Chinese breakfast sold by the local Chinese family every morning. This place is used to be the original habitats of the Chinese in the city. Though most of them relocated to another place called “Tyangra”, there are some few families still live in this area and sell their home cooked breakfast. From freshly made Lap Cheung or special Chinese sausage, to steamed fish dim sums, you will find almost everything. Though all of the food served is extremely delicious and fresh, but there has to be the mention of their special “fried pork dim sums” and steaming hot “fish ball soup”. But only one statutory warning, do visit this place between 6am to 7am in the morning, otherwise you will not find anything to eat. This make shift food place gets all cleared by maximum 7:30 am.

·         

      KUSUM ROLLS, PARKSTREET

 A usual take away shop with no seating available, Kusum roll, situated in the iconic park street is highly famous for serving one of the best Kati roll in the city. The beauty of a Kati roll is lies in the flaky and crunchy paratha served as a form of roll with the feeling of spicy cooked chicken or mutton pieces, along with fresh onions, and cucumbers and sometimes bell papers and in association with perfect blend of hot and sweet ketchups with a dash of lime juice over it.  sometimes the Paratha also cooked with eggs as per the demand of the customer as well. Roll is a completely calcuttan delicacy and way before locating the hungry crowd huddled in front of the stall, you will get the luscious aroma of spiced chicken way before you reach the stall yourself.

        ARSALAN, VARIOUS LOCATION

Though there are thousands of places in Kolkata, who serves Biriyani, but Arsalan is one of the top names will floating on the surface, if you are looking for the best Biriyani in town. What started with small and cozy outlet in the seven-point crossing of park circus, Arsalan has now over 7 outlets in the city itself. With perfectly dum cooked rice and mutton with the ultimate blend of 24 masalas, and the Sinful piece of Potato (another Kolkata special), and a hardboiled egg, the Arsalan Biriyani is less oily but not dry at all. It is a perfect blend of everything one needed in front of her. Along with the Biriyanis, their “Chicken boti kabab”, “Tandoori chicken” and “firni”( a milk and powered rice Mughlai dessert) is also to die for.  

         PUTIRAM, COLLEGE STREET

Though ignored and side crossed by most of the people, Putiram sweets, located just opposite the famous college square and the city college of commerce, this place is another secret the city keeps within her for decades. Surrounded by famous, universities colleges and schools of Kolkata and with a foot fall over 10,000 people per day in the heaven for book lovers, college street, secure this age-old eatery in the heart of itself. This place is mostly visited by the locals and who known the taste of the “luchi and cholar dal”, they serve. The deadly combination of “luchi”, small fried flat bread made of refined flour and “cholar dal”, an exclusive Bengali savory item made with de-husked and halved Bengal gram; is what makes them famous. To company the “luchi- cholar dal”; their famous “sorer laddu”, a round shaped sweet delicacy made from thickened milk, is something to die for. 

         LAKSHMI NARAYAN SHAW, HATIBAGN

      Another age-old eating place situated in the heart of North Kolkata, just a walking distance from Hati Bagan more, this place is all the way famous for selling "telebhaja" or Fried fritters for over than 100 years. just a small take away shop, buzzing with customers all evening, this place is famous for selling different types of fritters like onion fritters or "piyaji"; potato fritters or " aalur chop", brinjal fritters or "beguni" and many more varieties. this place is so famous that freedom fighter Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose was also a regular on that shop, during his college days. in order to respect this man of stature, this shop still giveaway free fritters to each and every customer came to his shop, on the occasion of Netaji's birthday,i.e. 23rd January every year. 

         CHITTARANJAN SWEETS, SOVABAZAR

     Undoubtedly the best place for having Rosogolla in town, Chittaranjan sweets is another hidden gem of the North Kolkata, hiding from the hustle and bustle of the city. situated in one of the bylanes of Sovabazar area, this sweet shop is one of the best shop selling Rosogolla to the entire city. Rosogolla and Kolkata are literally synonymous, no one can separate these two from each other. technically a particular sweet maker from this city is the patented inventor of this sweet delicacy, Rosogolla. each and every sweet shop in the city (counted to lakhs maybe) make rosogolla but among all of the Chittaranjan has their own taste. it will a great miss for a food lover if they never have the taste of this famous Kolkata Delicacy from this shop at least once. 

The entire food scene of Kolkata cannot be completed in one single piece of writing. I have tried to write about some of the most famous among them. Other than these, there are hundreds of places in the city serving with mouthwatering delicacies for years. They need a mention too! but maybe next time.

Until then, happy food hunting!